And so I met up with a 64 year old Tasmanian farmer who had
had some financial trouble and decided to go traveling around instead of
fretting about it and an English musician and an irish guy, and we four made
way for Darwin. I had to skip over Kakadu as I mentioned due to time
constraints but I will make my way to see the Daintree Rainforest to make up
for it. As we passed by Kakadu and Litchfeild national parks it seemed that
everything was blackened and on fire anyway due to it being the dry season.
We got off to a slow start inching our way from beautiful
waterfall to hotsprings to the next beautiful waterfall down the stuart
highway. It was nice to have the time to stop and take our time to see all the
sights and have no pressure on when we got to Cairns.
The waterfalls are very beautiful in the Northern Territory
and we stopped at one called Edith falls just in time for sunset. It was a bit
cold for swimming but that was best saved for the hot springs. In my
experience, when you come to a creek in the middle of the forest and you decide
to get in, you had best prepare yourself to inch in and take your time
acclimating to the freezing water. Not here. The water in some places was
boiling out of the ground and steam was coming off of the water in big clouds.
It felt like we were being turned into soup. The water is hot because there is
a lava chamber deep under ground next to the water that heats it up and sends
it to the surface to bubble up and burn unsuspecting bathers. But not all of
the hot springs were boiling. The best one we went to was bitter springs near
Mataranka the worlds most unassuming waterfall. They were deep enough to
actually swim in and the water was kept just nice and warm like a bath. That
was very refreshing after a few days of not having a shower or anything.
As for sleeping we just drove until about 6:30 and then
wherever we were we just pulled off at the side of the road and camped right
there. The first night we camped in a swamp under a bridge and then in the
desert for a few days and then suddenly we were in the rainforest. Even though
we were driving just about all day everyday, it still took us five days to get
from Darwin to Cairns. After we drove back down the stuart highway and saw all
the sights, after we turned east at Tennant Creek it quickly became apparent
just how big and empty Austraila really is. Not that there aren’t cool things
to see here but we drove for two days across the Table lands east of Tennant
creek and saw nothing but flat land and brown grass dotted with the occasional
cow. We decided that if we were going to drive all this way we would at least
have to make the most of our location and we turned north. Rather than keep
going east along the barkley highway and then north along the coast to Cairns we
decided to go north from Mt. Isa in the middle and head up to the Gulf of
Carpentaria. This is a very remote area and although it makes up a large part
of the northern coastline there is only one beach accessible by a sealed road.
So we drove up to a small town called Karumba and had fresh caught fish and
chips. (they just swim around pre-fried) and watched the sunset over a beach
that seemed to be made of concrete. (I still though it was pretty. Also
apparently Karumba is where the biggest crocodile ever shot was found. There is
a statue of the 5 meter giant in the nearby town of Normanton. We camped on the
beach and despite the dangers I still have not seen a crocodile in all my time
in Australia. I keep hearing about them but I’m beginning to wonder if they
really exist at all.
From here we drove east again across more empty but
increasingly interesting land until we got to the Atherton Tablelands. Suddenly
I blinked and I was back in Virginia. I swear the little towns with farmland on
the green rolling hills back dropped by mountains could have been Luray or
Roanoke or any other town in western Virginia and I never would have known the
difference if it were not for the ever present weird bird calls and driving on
the left side of the road. Of course the farmer said it looked just like
Tasmania, the English guy said it looked just like the English country side and
the irish guy said the same of Ireland. But still it was nice to see some
familiar territory. (and beautiful at that)
Then as we passed over the foothills I suddenly noticed a
line of thick massive clouds gathering in a line at the tops of the mountains.
And here we entered the rainforest. The trees were giant, everything was
dripping and green and the weird bird noises were as loud and weird as ever.
But the views out of the window as we drove on the mountain roads were
spectacular. On our last day of driving we stopped at several places to see the
Curtain Fig Rainforest reserve, (only 2% of which is left due to deforestation)
where you can see a giant fig tree that for all you Virginia people looks just
like a tree version of the Marine Corps Museum in Occoquan. Here I also saw
several bush turkeys in the forest which I promptly shook my fist at.
After a long and harrowing drive down the very windy other
side of the mountain range we arrived on the beautiful eastern coast and into
Cairns. Our group said our goodbyes after nearly a week of hiding from the
police (did I mention that we had more people in the van than we were supposed
to?) and campfire songs and then drunken campfire songs and just generally
living on the road. Actually speaking of the police we managed to get the whole
way from Darwin to Cairns and avoid being caught with more people in the van
than were supposed to be and as soon as we get within 2 kilometers of Cairns we
get pulled over because I have my arm out the window. Also because our driver
was driving in two lanes at once but I was surprised when the officer came over
to my side and told me that I could get a big fine just for having my arm
propped on the open window. But luck was on our side, the cops neither gave us
a ticket for anything NOR checked in the back of the car to find two guys
riding around without seatbelts on. PHEW. Don’t try this at home kids. . . . anyway I am now safely in Cairns
enjoying the vibrant nightlife here (especially on my birthday hahaha) and
spending the day at the waterfront drawing people and just generally hanging
out.
However the internet is REALLY expensive here, 1 dollar for
fifteen minutes! And all I really want to do most times is just check my email.
At least I am used to going without now and can just deal with it until I go
north to Port Douglas in the next few days. Thank you to everybody that wished me a happy birthday! For
reasons mentioned above I have been very brief and sparse in my use of the
computer but I did get your messages and thank you!
No comments:
Post a Comment